Restaurant Week - Fleur De Sel (CLOSED 2/09)

Once again, it's that wonderful time for year: "Restaurant Week" (it's actually two weeks - ETA, they just changed it to a month for this year). Last year, I dined at Riingo; this year, I decided on Fleur de Sel. The restaurant proved very accommodating to last-minute reservations changes; I'd asked for a table for two at 1 p.m., but our party suddenly expanded to three. On the phone, the reservationist said she could probably fit us in at a tight corner table that is sometimes used for trios, but when we arrived, we were comfortably seated at a table for four.

The $24.07 lunch menu included a choice of butternut squash soup or sardine napoleon, pan-seared blue cod or veal breast topped with a large oxtail ravioli, and macerated prune bread pudding or sorbet with meringue. All three of us ordered the same main course and dessert, but diverged with the appetizers. (There was an optional wine pairing, but it was just too early in the day for this - especially after last night's overindulgence at Artisanal.)

Warm sourdough bread got us going, and then the two of us who had ordered the soup drank in the heady flavors of truffle and coconut. A white puff of coconut milk foam decorated the bright orange squash puree, which was laced with truffle oil. The sardine napoleon was a savory curiosity (how do I eat this, my friend wondered) of three thin, crunchy Parmesan crackers layered with soft, salty sardines, and it was served with a small arugula salad.

The pan-seared blue cod lay atop a carrot coulis, which contained "rice beans" ("These are like the orzo of beans," remarked my friend. I'd been unaware of the existence of this legume and mistakenly thought the dish would be served with rice and beans), onions, diced tomatoes and chives - altogether delicious.

Warm, buttery bread pudding had a moist prune filling, and the side scoop of caramel ice cream melted appealingly into its bed of cookie crumbs. Strong coffee came with complimentary biscotti. (Although the restaurant was full, we were not rushed out after our coffee.)

Fleur de Sel will also be serving this menu next week.

Fleur de Sel: 5 East 20th St., (212) 460-9100.